Il Colosseo as the Romans refer to it began life as the Flavian Amphitheater, an enormous elliptical stadium capable of seating 50,000 spectators within its six acre domain.

During the 1st century AD, and for hundreds of years thereafter, the Colosseum was host to grisly spectacles of human-human and human-animal combat. Slight evidence of those activities remains among the ruins, chiefly the underground vaults and tunnels that served as storage and entrances for the combatants.

Though the building has suffered repeated fire and earthquake damage over the centuries, remnants of its ancient glory can be seen in numerous places.

Looking over the huge arena from atop its 48m (157ft) height, it isn’t difficult to imagine the show below as if it had happened only yesterday. True, the red brick arches are crumbling and the slaves and lions are long gone. But this popular Roman site remains alive with the ghosts of battles past and the many tourists in its present.

The seats are arranged in layers, almost all of which look out over the many levels of arch upon arch surrounding this vast expanse. Sitting in one, a visitor can almost hear the roar of the crowd as the Emperor’s retinue enters through one of the four entrances used solely by them. The other 76 were for the average Roman citizen.

Opening in 80 AD after eight years of labor by 15,000 slaves and engineers, the Colosseum gained its now-common name from a 40m (130ft) nearby statue, the Colossus. Thought to have once had Nero’s likeness, the statue displayed the face of a succession of Roman emperor’s down the years. Evidence of the base of the bronze giant can still be seen between the Colosseum and the Temple of Roma and Venus not far away.

For 100 days after its debut, the arena was host to celebrations both noble and barbarian (to modern eyes). Fights to the death among enslaved gladiators, Roman versions of lion taming, considerably harsher than modern circus acts and many other displays of violence were common fare.

Seating was arranged by rank – the Emperor had a box near the base and women who were not part of the Royal party were relegated to the upper levels. But even from there it would not have been too difficult to see the results of the combat. Even from that height it would not have been to hard to see rhinos, hippos and elephants who were used in the ‘shows’ along with the more well-known lions and tigers.

The masts and velarium – a canopy covering part the large area to provide shade – have disappeared, long ago succumbing to the changes of the ages. But the immense columns and walls remain, ranging from Doric on the first story, to Ionic on the second, finishing with Corinthian on the third.

Visitors will marvel at the rest of the architecture, as well, that even today forms the basis of arenas around the world. It was one of the first, and certainly the largest and most well-known, to be free-standing. Most prior examples had been dug out of a hillside, of which many exist in and near Rome.

No visit to Rome is complete with a tour of the Colosseum.

Formally known by the name Basilica di San Pietro, St. Peter’s Basilica is one of Rome’s foremost tourist attractions. This one site alone has enough to see to occupy an entire day or more. St. Peter’s is among the most well-known and frequently visited buildings inside Vatican City.

Though legend has it that the site was the burial place of Saint Peter, there’s slim evidence for the belief. Rather, it is sited on what was likely the 1st century Circus of Nero.

In the 4th century AD the early Christian Roman Emperor Constantine ordered construction of a basilica which preceded the more famous effort by a thousand years.

In the early 16th century, Pope Leo X raised the needed funds by appealing to the zealous in favor of a holy war against the turks, but diverted the funds to construction of St. Peter’s basilica.

Like any large construction project of the period, it went through several architects and Popes before being completed in the late 16th century.

The building is high for the period, over 135m (445ft) from floor level to the top of the cross, topped by the famous dome. The dome, which is an important element of the skyline of Rome, is an architectural marvel inside and out. Designed by the great Renaissance artist and chief architect Michaelangelo, it was adapted from a double-shell design by San Gallo.

Though the master became chief architect in 1546, he didn’t live to see it completed. After his death the work was taken up by his student, Giacomo della Porta and completed in 1590. Echoes of the design can be seen in many famous structures, including the Capitol Building in Washington, DC.

The dome held fast for two hundred years when stress cracks appeared, prompting the installation of four giant iron chains attached to the interior of the pair of shells. The chains are partly visible by climbing the spiral stairs between the two dome shells.

But there is much more to St. Peter’s Basilica than its famous dome. The building is immense, covering almost six acres and capable of holding over 60,000 people. Which it has done on more than one occasion. Many Papal ceremonies have been held there over the centuries.

The facade is almost 115m (377ft) wide and over 45m (148ft) high and there are several statuary adorning the exterior.

Within its walls are over 100 tombs, many of which are occupied by well known historical figures. Not least among them is Queen Christina of Sweden who abdicated her crown in 1654 in order to be free to convert to Catholicism.

Unquestionably, however, one of the most famous and important works in the interior is Michaelangelo’s Pieta, walled off by glass after being attacked by a lunatic with an axe in 1972.

Outside, apart from the view of the dome, there are several notable historical works to view.

There are several ancient clocks and one has a bell dating from the late 13th century. An Egyptian obelisk from the 13th century BC which once stood outside Nero’s Circus is nearby.

Two fountains occupy the square. The one to the south is a design by the outstanding artist, Bernini, who created it in 1675. Bernini was also responsible for the stellar Triumph of the Chair of Saint Peter at the apse of the church.

Few can visit Rome without spending at least a few hours roaming within and around this outstanding example of Renaissance architecture.

 

Rome is an outdoor city. Though, of course, there are many churches, museums, restaurants, theaters and other indoor attractions, the city shines best when seen from one its piazzas.

The word means public square. But unlike some other internationally renowned cities, the piazzas of Rome are truly gathering places for people who love the beauty of outdoor art in all its forms.

Navona holds one of the finest examples of Bernini’s fountain work: the Fontana dei Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers) built in 1651. Arrayed around the central rocky mass supporting the almost-obligatory obelisk are four large sculptures executed by his students. One of them, the Ganges, was sculpted by Claude Poussin who would later become a master under his own name.

The fountain is a tour de force with a sea monster, a lion, cacti, palm tree and a dozen other pieces woven together around the central column.

The funding was so large for the piece that taxes were levied on bread, prompting outcries from Roman citizens both poor and rich. But with the controversy now a part of history, the visitor can simply relax and have a cup of coffee while watching the busy city.

The Fountain of the Moor is at the other end of the piazza and features a Triton – one of the many gods of the sea – riding a dolphin. From this vantage point, there is ample opportunity for people watching, enjoying the warm Roman sunshine or planning the next stop around the Piazza Navona and its environs. For there is much to do besides admire one of Rome’s many instances of outdoor waterworks.

There are dozens of merchant stalls, interspersed among the many cafes and restaurants. You could stop near one and have your portrait sketched by one of the numerous artists dotting the piazza.

There is nightlife until early in the morning, with mimes, beggars, artists and a hundreds of natives and tourists threading through the oval plaza. The piazza was constructed around one of the ancient circuses – a circular area where streets converge, not a show with animals.

Be sure to stop in at the Tre Scalini and indulge yourself in a Tartufo. Or visit the oldest extant bar in Rome nearby, the Caffe della Pace. Here you can enjoy a Campari and take in the ambiance. Confess your sins at the Church of Sant’Agnese, set not far from three of Bernini’s famous fountains.

The Fontana dei Calderai (Fountain of the Coppersmiths), later renamed the Fountain of Neptune is also here. Festooned with sea figures, Neptune slaying an octopus, sea horses, dolphins and Nerieds (sea nymphs) it carries Rome’s fountain-sea creature theme to the ultimate peak. The fountain is made of the same Portasanta rose marble used for St. Peter’s doorjambs.

Or, you can take a short walk to the Piazza Sant’Eustachio, between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona and listen to some classical music. Or catch the bus to the Pantheon.

Don’t miss an opportunity to visit one of Rome’s most well-known public squares, even if it is round.

One of the more recent attractions in Rome is actually one of the more ancient. The Golden House of Nero, what remains of it, has been excavated and the ruins are now available for public viewing. Though re-discovered during the Renaissance, they were the subject of a massive restoration project near the end of the 20th century.

Constructed in 64 AD after the devastating fire that burned two-thirds of Rome (at which legend has it Nero fiddled), the Golden House is an archaeological treasure trove. At one time many parts were covered with gold foil and the ceiling festooned with ivory and jewels by the extravagant emperor. Alas, these are not on display. They were stripped from the palace shortly after Nero’s death.

The original palace and related structures covered 350 acres that included a man-made lake, vineyards and the house itself. Terming the villa a house, however, is misleading. It contained 300 rooms, but is thought to have had no sleeping quarters. None that were intentional, at least. No doubt many passed out where they were during the parties for which Nero was famed.

It was the original site of the huge statue Nero had made, bearing his own likeness of course, that was later relocated to outside the Colosseum. The bronze base of the 40m/130ft statue can still be seen there.

Though much has been destroyed over the centuries, there still remains enough to satisfy anyone looking to spend an interesting hour or two tour in a cool place. That’s always welcome in Rome, where the temperature can be in the mid-80s even in late October.

The underground, audio-guided tour offers enormous, fresco-covered vaults and many rooms to explore. The frescoes painted by Fabullus, a noted artist of the period were executed in a style popular in Pompeii, the doomed city not far from Rome.

The Renaissance artist Raphael used them as models for some of his own work, and many Renaissance artists – including Michaelangelo – went to visit the (then) newly discovered palace frescoes. Both artists left their signatures scratched in the walls, to be later joined by such luminaries as Casanova and the Marquis de Sade.

The tour shows a wide variety – some areas are shadowed ruins with barely visible carvings. Others are fully restored golden and marble walls with largely intact paintings and fireplaces.

Grottos abound in the underground area, but the most impressive portion is unquestionably the Octagon Room. Here Nero, a great fan of Greek art, housed a statue of the Dying Gaul, which can now be seen in the Pallazo Altemps museum.

Outside, there are gardens and a reconstruction of the octagonal room that allow the visitor to clearly imagine what living there must have been like.

The Plaza Mayor remains one of Madrid’s chief tourist attractions. Though called by many names over the centuries and subject to several fires, it retains its allure. The reasons are not hard to find. While not an architectural work of art, the plaza is one of the best places in Madrid to relax and watch the blend of citizen and visitor.

Over the centuries the plaza has hosted bullfights, political battles, festivals and more than one beheading. Today, the most likely site for a tourist lazily munching on a sandwich and enjoying the sunshine. The surrounding shops offer a good reason for a pleasant stroll and for the truly curious, you can visit the baker’s guild.

Established centuries earlier, the Plaza Mayor took its approximate current shape in 1790 after the most recent fire. The brainchild of Phillipe II, as part of his effort to make Madrid the capital of Spain, it was completed in 1619 under the auspices of Phillipe III. The latter’s statue in the center of the plaza serves as a reminder to all of its patron.

Not large by some standards, it is nearly square at about 100m on each side. But within the area nearly 50,000 spectators have stood at one time or another. Whether cheering and dancing during one of Madrid’s many festivals or gawking and horrified at one of Spain’s many executions, the plaza has served as a public square in the most literal sense.

Weddings have alternated with trials by the Spanish Inquisition. Bullfights have traded places with summer lounging. The buildings surrounding the square provide convenient perches for those who want to look down on the events taking place below.

In the summer those observers will see dozens of tables where a tourist can get a meal or a drink or just take a rest. No matter where you sit, it won’t be long before a waiter from one of the surrounding restaurants arrives to take your order. When he does you’ll have a chance to experience first hand Madrid’s friendly atmosphere.

There are dozens of cafes, bars and restaurants. When you’ve finished your meal, and perhaps had a little siesta, there are numerous shops around to peruse. Antiques, coins, military memorabilia and a variety of other choices are within an easy stroll.

Like any big city, petty crime is not unknown there. Tourists should be aware of their surroundings and take appropriate cautions to avoid being taken advantage of. Paranoia would be extreme, but prudence is called for.

Though one is unlikely to see a royal coronation, looking around it isn’t difficult to imagine what the scene must have been like during some of the historical events centered at the Plaza Mayor. Fortunately, today’s visitors no longer have to be very concerned about witnessing an auto de fe – a ritual of public penance by heretics, after a judicial sentencing by the Spanish Inquisition.

Madrilenos today are much more interested in enjoying life. Come join them in the Plaza Mayor.

While perhaps not as well known for it as London or New York, Madrid has dozens of excellent places to shop. Whether you’re looking for a valuable antique or just a simple gift for someone back home, Madrid has much to offer. You may be looking for exclusive shops – of which there are many, or you may want a flea market atmosphere. Madrid has it all.

Tourists can spend time in the hippie quarter in Lavapies or head north to Gran Via, Madrid’s premier shopping street. Even at night the shopping in Madrid never stops. The impromptu stalls around Plaza Mayor are always staffed with someone ready to make a deal. Many are just tourist traps, so beware how you bargain. There’s no point in coming all the way to Madrid just to get junk you could buy anywhere.

You can head to El Rastro, Madrid’s huge outdoor flea market. It has its share of junk too, but there are also some decent antiques and the odd great find. Jewelry, old clothes, books… just about anything you can think of. Nearby there’s a coin and stamp fair held on Sundays.

Located between the Plaza de Cascorro and Ronda de Toledo, there’s a Metro stop at La Latina. Easy to recognize, there’s a statue of Eloy Gonzalo in the middle of Cascorro Square.

If you go during the week the area is likely to be less crowded, but there are also many fewer shopping opportunities. You may prefer the weekend when the place is packed with tourists and natives alike and there is much more from which to choose.

The Alcalá area will prove to be a dream come true for some. Shoes, dresses, accessories and more are available in dozens of different stores. Everything here is the latest in style and you’ll find a gift for yourself and those who stayed home. Take the Metro to Sol or Sevilla.

On Calle Serrano shoppers will find all the upscale items their taste demands. Designer clothing shops, art boutiques and dozens of gifts for those unfortunates who couldn’t come along on the trip to Madrid.

For the men, the Calle Princessa has a range of options. Suits, shoes and much more can be found in this popular area. Take the Metro to Argüelles and Ventura Rodríguez.

Calle Preciados makes for a great shopping stop, because it’s strictly pedestrians-only. Ditto Calle Montera. Everything from men’s fashions to the most fashionable women’s clothing are easy to find on this street. Take the Metro to Sol.

Don’t forget to check out El Cortes Ingles, Madrid’s premier department store. Part of a chain, the main store is here and offers just about anything you can ask for.

While you’re in the area try Mercado de San Miguel, which used to be a fish market. Today, it offers a variety of small shops that offer fresh fruits, vegetables and much more in this small area. You’ll need some food after all that shopping!

While Parque del Buen Retiro (at about 300 acres) is much smaller than New York’s Central Park (840 acres) it is nonetheless magnificent. Filled with beautiful sculpture and monuments, a peaceful lake and host to a variety of events, it is rightfully one of Madrid’s premier attractions.

The park grounds were once the province of a royal palace of Phillip IV. Evidence of that remains in the form of the Casón Del Buen Retiro and the Museo del Ejército. The remaining buildings were decimated largely by the Napoleonic wars around the beginning of the 19th century.

The Casón now houses a collection of 19th and 20th century paintings, including art by the Spanish painter Sorolla.

The Ejército is one of Spain’s foremost Army museums and it houses the sword of the famous Spanish warrior El Cid. Along with El Cid’s famous La Tizona, there are displays of armor, a cross carried by Columbus on his sea voyage to the New World and other artifacts.

Though created in 1632, the park was first opened to the public in 1868. Since that time, madrilenos have strolled its sidewalks enjoying views of rolling greenery, street musicians, jugglers, fortune tellers and just ordinary citizens out for a warm walk.

The centerpiece of that beautiful scenery is the large lake near the northern entrance called the Estanque del Retiro. Visitors can rent a boat and row leisurely across the surface. As they do they can see, along with those on the shore, the statue of King Alfonso XII astride his horse. Erected in 1922, the statue is backed by a semi-circular colonnade that completes the view.

At the southern end is another lake next to which is the extraordinary Palacio de Cristal (Crystal Palace). Completed in 1887 and modeled after a similar building in London, it was intended to house a variety of exotic plants. A short stroll away is the Palacio de Velázquez which once held exhibitions for various industries. It’s now used primarily to house temporary exhibits from the Queen Sofia art museum.

The Rosaleda rose garden is another of the park’s beautiful features, one frequently enjoyed by tourists and natives alike. Among the many rose bushes stands a statue called El Angel Caído depicting Satan as one of the fallen angels. It’s easy to locate by walking down the Avenida de Cuba through the Plaza de Honduras.

Nearby are the equally delightful Cecilia Rodriguez gardens and not far away are outstanding restaurants on Serrano Street. For something less expensive, there are many outdoor cafes near the lake. Only a few minutes walk distant is the Prado museum where you can spend hours enjoying the works housed in one of Europe’s finest art museums.

The Buen Retiro – ‘the good retreat’ – is aptly named. Visit and find out why.

Located at Calle Santa Isabel 52, the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia is just the ticket for fans of Picasso, Miro, Solana and other notable Spanish artists.

A relatively young museum, established in 1991, the Queen Sofia contains hundreds of works by dozens of artists, including the famed Guernica by Picasso. As a result it is now ranked among the most important collections in modern art in Europe.

Unusual for a museum dedicated to modern art, the collection is housed in a building designed in the 18th century. Scheduled to be demolished, it was declared an historic monument in 1977 and eventually was re-purposed to its present use.

Located near the Atocha roundabout not far from the Prado, the theme of traditional combined with modern continues in the famed transparent elevators. From them visitors can obtain an excellent view of Madrid on their way to the paintings.

Off the elevator banks there are several interesting Solana pieces, among them The Circle of the Cafe Pombo, The Chorus Girls and The Meeting of the Pharmacy. All are works of the 20s and 30s, but the collection of Queen Sofia covers a range from the late 19th century to the most contemporary works.

Miro is well represented with works such as Man With A Pipe, Escargot, Femme, Fleur, Toile and Femme et Oiseau Dans La Nuit (Woman and Bird in the Night). Painted in Barcelona these works from the 20s and 30s of the artist continue to attract large crowds of visitors.

Dali has a number of works in the museum. The style runs the gamut from the 1927 Still Life By the Light of the Moon, which appears to be a take-off of Picasso, to the naturalistic portrait Galarina of 1945, to the Crucifixion paintings of 1951 and 1955 in which surrealism is suppressed in favor of a stylized realism.

There are several Picasso works, some of them that will surprise all but the most knowledgeable devotees of the Spanish painter. The First Communion from 1896, for example, shows the young artist painting very much in the academic style of the 19th century. Even the Woman In Blue of 1901 still shows much of this influence.

By the time you come upon the Las Señoritas de Avignon of 1907 the cubist style for which he is most well known is prominently on display. The famed Guernica, painted in 1937 is yet another evolution of this ever-changing artist. Taking its inspiration from the Nazi bombing of the town of the same name, it shows the mature Picasso’s slant on surrealism in an unmistakable way.

Besides the paintings, there are porcelain, pottery, glass and a great many other objets d’art housed in the over 46,000 square yards (39,000 sq m) of exhibit space. There’s also a public library and a cafeteria.