Il Colosseo as the Romans refer to it began life as the Flavian Amphitheater, an enormous elliptical stadium capable of seating 50,000 spectators within its six acre domain.

During the 1st century AD, and for hundreds of years thereafter, the Colosseum was host to grisly spectacles of human-human and human-animal combat. Slight evidence of those activities remains among the ruins, chiefly the underground vaults and tunnels that served as storage and entrances for the combatants.

Though the building has suffered repeated fire and earthquake damage over the centuries, remnants of its ancient glory can be seen in numerous places.

Looking over the huge arena from atop its 48m (157ft) height, it isn’t difficult to imagine the show below as if it had happened only yesterday. True, the red brick arches are crumbling and the slaves and lions are long gone. But this popular Roman site remains alive with the ghosts of battles past and the many tourists in its present.

The seats are arranged in layers, almost all of which look out over the many levels of arch upon arch surrounding this vast expanse. Sitting in one, a visitor can almost hear the roar of the crowd as the Emperor’s retinue enters through one of the four entrances used solely by them. The other 76 were for the average Roman citizen.

Opening in 80 AD after eight years of labor by 15,000 slaves and engineers, the Colosseum gained its now-common name from a 40m (130ft) nearby statue, the Colossus. Thought to have once had Nero’s likeness, the statue displayed the face of a succession of Roman emperor’s down the years. Evidence of the base of the bronze giant can still be seen between the Colosseum and the Temple of Roma and Venus not far away.

For 100 days after its debut, the arena was host to celebrations both noble and barbarian (to modern eyes). Fights to the death among enslaved gladiators, Roman versions of lion taming, considerably harsher than modern circus acts and many other displays of violence were common fare.

Seating was arranged by rank - the Emperor had a box near the base and women who were not part of the Royal party were relegated to the upper levels. But even from there it would not have been too difficult to see the results of the combat. Even from that height it would not have been to hard to see rhinos, hippos and elephants who were used in the ’shows’ along with the more well-known lions and tigers.

The masts and velarium - a canopy covering part the large area to provide shade - have disappeared, long ago succumbing to the changes of the ages. But the immense columns and walls remain, ranging from Doric on the first story, to Ionic on the second, finishing with Corinthian on the third.

Visitors will marvel at the rest of the architecture, as well, that even today forms the basis of arenas around the world. It was one of the first, and certainly the largest and most well-known, to be free-standing. Most prior examples had been dug out of a hillside, of which many exist in and near Rome.

No visit to Rome is complete with a tour of the Colosseum.

Formally known by the name Basilica di San Pietro, St. Peter’s Basilica is one of Rome’s foremost tourist attractions. This one site alone has enough to see to occupy an entire day or more. St. Peter’s is among the most well-known and frequently visited buildings inside Vatican City.

Though legend has it that the site was the burial place of Saint Peter, there’s slim evidence for the belief. Rather, it is sited on what was likely the 1st century Circus of Nero.

In the 4th century AD the early Christian Roman Emperor Constantine ordered construction of a basilica which preceded the more famous effort by a thousand years.

In the early 16th century, Pope Leo X raised the needed funds by appealing to the zealous in favor of a holy war against the turks, but diverted the funds to construction of St. Peter’s basilica.

Like any large construction project of the period, it went through several architects and Popes before being completed in the late 16th century.

The building is high for the period, over 135m (445ft) from floor level to the top of the cross, topped by the famous dome. The dome, which is an important element of the skyline of Rome, is an architectural marvel inside and out. Designed by the great Renaissance artist and chief architect Michaelangelo, it was adapted from a double-shell design by San Gallo.

Though the master became chief architect in 1546, he didn’t live to see it completed. After his death the work was taken up by his student, Giacomo della Porta and completed in 1590. Echoes of the design can be seen in many famous structures, including the Capitol Building in Washington, DC.

The dome held fast for two hundred years when stress cracks appeared, prompting the installation of four giant iron chains attached to the interior of the pair of shells. The chains are partly visible by climbing the spiral stairs between the two dome shells.

But there is much more to St. Peter’s Basilica than its famous dome. The building is immense, covering almost six acres and capable of holding over 60,000 people. Which it has done on more than one occasion. Many Papal ceremonies have been held there over the centuries.

The facade is almost 115m (377ft) wide and over 45m (148ft) high and there are several statuary adorning the exterior.

Within its walls are over 100 tombs, many of which are occupied by well known historical figures. Not least among them is Queen Christina of Sweden who abdicated her crown in 1654 in order to be free to convert to Catholicism.

Unquestionably, however, one of the most famous and important works in the interior is Michaelangelo’s Pieta, walled off by glass after being attacked by a lunatic with an axe in 1972.

Outside, apart from the view of the dome, there are several notable historical works to view.

There are several ancient clocks and one has a bell dating from the late 13th century. An Egyptian obelisk from the 13th century BC which once stood outside Nero’s Circus is nearby.

Two fountains occupy the square. The one to the south is a design by the outstanding artist, Bernini, who created it in 1675. Bernini was also responsible for the stellar Triumph of the Chair of Saint Peter at the apse of the church.

Few can visit Rome without spending at least a few hours roaming within and around this outstanding example of Renaissance architecture.

 

Rome is an outdoor city. Though, of course, there are many churches, museums, restaurants, theaters and other indoor attractions, the city shines best when seen from one its piazzas.

The word means public square. But unlike some other internationally renowned cities, the piazzas of Rome are truly gathering places for people who love the beauty of outdoor art in all its forms.

Navona holds one of the finest examples of Bernini’s fountain work: the Fontana dei Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers) built in 1651. Arrayed around the central rocky mass supporting the almost-obligatory obelisk are four large sculptures executed by his students. One of them, the Ganges, was sculpted by Claude Poussin who would later become a master under his own name.

The fountain is a tour de force with a sea monster, a lion, cacti, palm tree and a dozen other pieces woven together around the central column.

The funding was so large for the piece that taxes were levied on bread, prompting outcries from Roman citizens both poor and rich. But with the controversy now a part of history, the visitor can simply relax and have a cup of coffee while watching the busy city.

The Fountain of the Moor is at the other end of the piazza and features a Triton - one of the many gods of the sea - riding a dolphin. From this vantage point, there is ample opportunity for people watching, enjoying the warm Roman sunshine or planning the next stop around the Piazza Navona and its environs. For there is much to do besides admire one of Rome’s many instances of outdoor waterworks.

There are dozens of merchant stalls, interspersed among the many cafes and restaurants. You could stop near one and have your portrait sketched by one of the numerous artists dotting the piazza.

There is nightlife until early in the morning, with mimes, beggars, artists and a hundreds of natives and tourists threading through the oval plaza. The piazza was constructed around one of the ancient circuses - a circular area where streets converge, not a show with animals.

Be sure to stop in at the Tre Scalini and indulge yourself in a Tartufo. Or visit the oldest extant bar in Rome nearby, the Caffe della Pace. Here you can enjoy a Campari and take in the ambiance. Confess your sins at the Church of Sant’Agnese, set not far from three of Bernini’s famous fountains.

The Fontana dei Calderai (Fountain of the Coppersmiths), later renamed the Fountain of Neptune is also here. Festooned with sea figures, Neptune slaying an octopus, sea horses, dolphins and Nerieds (sea nymphs) it carries Rome’s fountain-sea creature theme to the ultimate peak. The fountain is made of the same Portasanta rose marble used for St. Peter’s doorjambs.

Or, you can take a short walk to the Piazza Sant’Eustachio, between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona and listen to some classical music. Or catch the bus to the Pantheon.

Don’t miss an opportunity to visit one of Rome’s most well-known public squares, even if it is round.

One of the more recent attractions in Rome is actually one of the more ancient. The Golden House of Nero, what remains of it, has been excavated and the ruins are now available for public viewing. Though re-discovered during the Renaissance, they were the subject of a massive restoration project near the end of the 20th century.

Constructed in 64 AD after the devastating fire that burned two-thirds of Rome (at which legend has it Nero fiddled), the Golden House is an archaeological treasure trove. At one time many parts were covered with gold foil and the ceiling festooned with ivory and jewels by the extravagant emperor. Alas, these are not on display. They were stripped from the palace shortly after Nero’s death.

The original palace and related structures covered 350 acres that included a man-made lake, vineyards and the house itself. Terming the villa a house, however, is misleading. It contained 300 rooms, but is thought to have had no sleeping quarters. None that were intentional, at least. No doubt many passed out where they were during the parties for which Nero was famed.

It was the original site of the huge statue Nero had made, bearing his own likeness of course, that was later relocated to outside the Colosseum. The bronze base of the 40m/130ft statue can still be seen there.

Though much has been destroyed over the centuries, there still remains enough to satisfy anyone looking to spend an interesting hour or two tour in a cool place. That’s always welcome in Rome, where the temperature can be in the mid-80s even in late October.

The underground, audio-guided tour offers enormous, fresco-covered vaults and many rooms to explore. The frescoes painted by Fabullus, a noted artist of the period were executed in a style popular in Pompeii, the doomed city not far from Rome.

The Renaissance artist Raphael used them as models for some of his own work, and many Renaissance artists - including Michaelangelo - went to visit the (then) newly discovered palace frescoes. Both artists left their signatures scratched in the walls, to be later joined by such luminaries as Casanova and the Marquis de Sade.

The tour shows a wide variety - some areas are shadowed ruins with barely visible carvings. Others are fully restored golden and marble walls with largely intact paintings and fireplaces.

Grottos abound in the underground area, but the most impressive portion is unquestionably the Octagon Room. Here Nero, a great fan of Greek art, housed a statue of the Dying Gaul, which can now be seen in the Pallazo Altemps museum.

Outside, there are gardens and a reconstruction of the octagonal room that allow the visitor to clearly imagine what living there must have been like.