New York – A Cultural History

Why is New York so famous? After all, the weather is terrible, the city is overcrowded, and even the buildings are second to many others elsewhere. The cigar-shaped strip of land called Manhattan is difficult to access with bridges crowded with cars, streets clogged with buses and taxis.

But, oh, that city. What combination of fascinating history, rare sights and unquenchable spirit is found there.

Where after all were some of the first subways built making possible the productive use of former swamp land? The early 20th century saw the expansion of the system North to Central Park and beyond where there were formerly shanties and mosquitos. Now the area hosts some of the most elegant businesses and museums in the world.

And the history of Wall Street would (and has) fill(ed) many a gripping story of passion, greed, and vision. In the second half of the 19th century J.P. Morgan financed the burgeoning steel and electrical industries and many railroads out of his own pocket (while his competitors ran to the legislature for special handouts).

Settled by the Dutch in the early 17th century, the city quickly became an entrance point to ‘the New World’ for the thousands – later millions – who sailed into the harbor to seek freedom and fortune.

Effectively the capital of the new nation for a hundred years (though only officially from 1788-1790), it has long attracted inventors, artists, and entrepreneurs of every variety. Thomas Edison, a bit of all three, initiated some of the first city electrification projects here. (His laboratory was in New Jersey, but the Pearl Street Station began operation in 1882 in Manhattan.)

Beyond the material advances that began in the 18th century and continue today, New York has not neglected other important aspects of human experience throughout its history.

One of the world centers of politics, the United Nations is in midtown. Manhattan is also home to a fashion business that has rivaled Milan and Paris since the 1920s. Whether it’s fashions in law or clothes, it’s here.

But Manhattan hasn’t been the only part of New York to play a major role in American and world affairs. The Brooklyn Navy Yard was a significant shipbuilding facility during WWII. From the active port was launched many a vessel that helped to conquer the Fascism of the mid-20th century, manned often by men and women from the neighborhood.

Queens and the Bronx are, and have been for a hundred years, home to both major baseball and tennis competitions. Yankee stadium has been thrilling locals and visitors in the Bronx since before Babe Ruth. The US Open Tennis championship takes place in Forest Hills, part of Queens.

Even entertainment and art are at their zenith in New York.

Broadway has presented everything from Cole Porter in the 1940s to ‘The Phantom of the Opera’ today, from Olivier’s Shakespeare in the the 1950s to ‘Penn and Teller’ recently. The Metropolitan, opened a hundred years ago, houses 6,000 years of art and Desha is only a few years old, but already joining the ranks of the world’s great art museums.

Early radio and television development were centered here and remain major factors in the economic and cultural life of the city. In 1928, William Paley founded CBS and as early as 1931 Bing Crosby was singing nightly on a CBS station. By 1935 Edward Murrow joined the company and went on to a series of broadcasts that remain the subject of movies today.

Placed again at the center of history on September 11, 2001, New York has risen to reveal its unconquerable face. The Freedom Tower is set to begin a 1776-foot climb to the sky and residents and visitors from the world over are anew looking up, as they did a hundred years ago to the Statue of Liberty.

That’s New York.

 

Filed under: World Cities

Chicago – The Windy City Adventure

No matter what your interests, if you can’t find it in Chicago consider staying home. Whether your taste runs to Shakespeare or meerkats, food or Jazz, airy museums or dank coffee houses, this city has everything – in spades.

For those who enjoy fine arts, The Art Institute offers one of the best collections to be found anywhere in the world. Though much smaller than the Metropolitan in New York or the Louvre in Paris, the paintings and other objects on display are second to none.

For those who like their art more lively, the seven-story Shakespeare Theater at Navy Pier offers works by the Bard and other world renowned artists.

Beyond this, Chicago has a theater district that has rightly earned the town the title Second City. Second in name, but not in quality. Shows here are as good as anything you’ll find in New York, as the list of famous actors who have called it a professional home can show.

If shopping is more your style of entertainment, you don’t have to go to New York, London or Paris to find anything you would look for there. With over 460 shops in the Magnificent Mile area alone, you’ll run out of money and time long before you run out of stores.

Whether it’s Nieman Marcus or Marshall Field’s (the home grown department stores), or Cartier, Hermes, or Tiffany’s imported from New York, there’s something here to please even the most finicky.

Restaurants in Chicago are also first rate. Maybe you just want a great burger at Billy Goat Tavern in Navy Pier. Or, you might want the best pizza in the world. Gino’s East at 8725 W. Higgins, or Pete’s at 3737 N Western, or Home Run Inn at 4254 W 31st St, who can decide? You might prefer Brazilian at Sal & Carvao (739 N Clark St) or jambalaya at Joe’s Be-Bop at Navy Pier.

If you want to just drink, there’s no better place than Chicago. At Charlie’s Ale House at Navy Pier you can find over 70 beers to choose from. Or, you can sidle into the Volo Restaurant Wine Bar (2008 W Roscoe St) for one of the finest selections served. After that you might need a cup of coffee. Try the Julius Meinl Cafe (3601 N. Southport) where the Viennese is authentic and you can hear a string quartet play while you sip.

For animal enjoyment there are the dead ones at The Field Museum where the largest T-Rex ever found is housed, or the live ones at Brookfield Zoo. Or, you can head over to the Shedd Aquarium and catch the Beluga whales or dozens of sharks looking for a meal.

Head out to one of the 500 parks around the city, but don’t forget about the place with the name that is not a park – Hyde Park. Home to the Frank Lloyd Wright Studio and Home, as well as the Robie House and many other architectural icons, you’ll find plenty to write home about.

Don’t miss out on the view from up high. Be sure to visit the Sears Tower and the Hancock Center, two great (almost) 100-story high observatories that will show you how the Windy City got its nickname.

If you think New York, London or Paris are among the world’s great cities… you’re right. Come find out why Chicago is easily in the same class.

Filed under: World Cities

Chicago – The Sears Tower

For many years the world’s tallest skyscraper, the Sears Tower is really nine buildings combined into one massive structure. Completed in 1974, it was erected to consolidate offices housing 6,500 Sears employees from all over the city.

Close to the famed Chicago ‘L’, the elevated train and Chicago Transit Authority buses, it would have been taller but the Federal Aviation Authority was concerned about plane safety on routes to and from O’Hare.

The buildings are comprised of a set of ‘bundled tubes’ in which each tower supports others. Owing to the strong winds in Chicago, produced by its proximity to Lake Michigan, any tall building has to take careful account of stresses produced by wind shear. With its special design, the perimeter can shed winds and reduce sway, while the interior provides structural support.

A series of setbacks above the 50th floor give the structure its unique look, along with the black glass that provides both light and temperature control and an impressive facade. As a result, it forms a significant addition to an already magnificent skyline in one of America’s premier cities.

Visitors can take the elevator to the Skydeck to see the view at the 103rd floor. The entrance is on Jackson Boulevard and 1.5 million visitors pass through it every year.

First step on the tour after you get your tickets is a video that explains the history and unique construction of the building, very interesting all on its own. Then it’s on to the SkyDeck elevators where you are whisked to the top. Elevators are equipped with 50-inch flat screen monitors with views of the Earth from the Space Shuttle, compliments of NASA.

On a clear day visitors can see for dozens of miles and, thanks to the high winds, the sky is often clear. The view is entangled by other structures nearby, but you’ll see not only the other buildings but parts of Michigan, Indiana and Wisconsin stretching into the distance.

There are interactive computer displays that give you tons of information about the history of Chicago and its world famous buildings. Cut-out windows allow the kids to see as well as the adults. High-powered telescopes provide for a closer look at some of the other sights of the city.

The Tower also offers several restaurants to choose from including Mrs. Levy’s Delicatessen, a New York style deli, Mia Torre for Italian cuisine and Dos Hermanos offering a Mexican menu.

The surrounding space at the base of the tower is somewhat plain, but the view looking up is spectacular. In order to relieve the blandness of the plaza, a 4-story atrium was erected on Wacker Drive that is worth a look.

Lines can be very long and there are often long waits not only for tickets but elevators in both directions. Be sure to allow plenty of time to get to the top or bottom. Aim for a Sunday morning or other low-traffic time.

Filed under: World Cities

Chicago – The Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio

Frank Lloyd Wright is justly regarded as one of the greatest architects in history. But it wasn’t always so. Early in his career, as with most artists, he struggled for recognition and commercial success. After some initial popularity, for decades afterwards (as a result of scandals and changing tastes), he was largely ignored. But genius is irrepressible. That talent is more than hinted at in Wright’s own home and studio, constructed in 1889 and 1898.

Wright borrowed $5,000 from his employer and mentor, Louis Sullivan, another great Chicago architect, in order to build the home. In short order, he had installed himself and his wife, and before long there were six children to raise. His career blossomed as he developed his distinctive style and by 1898 he was ready to add a studio.

At the studio, as with the house itself, Wright experimented with every aspect of architecture here. The result: his world renowned Prairie Style. That style – low roofs, cantilevers and the numerous other unique Wright design ideas (now commonplace, with their origins unknown to many) – developed into 125 buildings.

Many of those structures are in Chicago itself. The Robie House, now used (in part) as offices by the University of Chicago, is one of the outstanding examples.

Tours are available that allow visitors to experience the beginnings of the revolution that Wright wrought. The house and studio have undergone extensive renovation, ending with the site as it existed in 1909 (the last year Wright lived there). The restoration took 13 years and over $3 million to complete, but the results are open to the public to enjoy.

Here is the drafting room, near the front of the house on the second floor, where Wright first conceived many of his groundbreaking ideas. In 1895 the architect added a two-story polygonal bay on the south side. Here you’ll see the dining room, containing dining table and chairs that are early examples of a style any Wright fan will recognize.

In the same year another extension was added to the east side of the house, this containing the children’s playroom. The windows and skylight are excellent examples of Wright’s use of outdoor light to complement and complete the interior design.

On the north face of the home, Wright added the studio annex, completed in 1898. A rare example of the use of octagonal light frames is one of the highlights of a visit. Under these lights the master and his apprentices labored to produce some of the 20th century’s most outstanding works of art in wood, glass and stone.

Though unpopular, both personally and professionally, for much of the middle portion of his life, Wright’s early commitment to excellence never faded through storybook adversity. His life and work were both the stuff of legend. Come see where it all began.

Filed under: World Cities

Chicago – The Field Museum

Founded in 1893 as the Columbian Museum, this treasure trove of archaeological artifacts is one of the world’s preeminent institutions. With a library of more than 250,000 volumes and millions of stored objects, it is a world class center of learning about the history of mankind. A major part of that collection is available to the public and it makes for much more than a dry, academic visit.

Those with an interest in Ancient Egypt won’t be disappointed. There are catacombs on display whose hallways were once trod by Pharaohs and many of their mummies are on display. There are displays explaining how they lived and what happened to the servants after they died.

Kids will enjoy the dinosaur exhibit, with 40-foot monsters ready to pounce. Centerpiece of the collection is one named ‘Sue’, a 67 million year old sample whose discovery was an adventure all its own. The world’s largest T-Rex, she’ll fascinate kids of all ages.

In the Nature Walk visitors will find over 500 samples of birds, mammals and denizens of the sea. The amazing variety of species has been preserved in very lifelike poses.

Every kind of creepy bug you can imagine is on display, with a 20-foot giant replica that will delight kids, too. In the Underground Adventure you’ll enter an area where you are the tiny creature and the bugs are elephant-sized. Kids can navigate their way through an ant colony and experience what it’s like to maintain the hive.

The mineral exhibit in the Earth Sciences section is the equal of that in the famed Natural History museums in New York or Washington. Ranging from meteorite samples to $1,000,000 gems, there are more crystals on display than you knew existed.

The Hall of Gems is particularly spectacular, with over 50 kinds of precious jewels on display. Nearby is the Hall of Jades with dozens of samples from China of this green stone that has delighted queens and started wars.

Next door is the Plants of the World area where you can see what jungles were like a million years ago up to today. The displays are incredibly lifelike, even though they are all artificial.

In the Evolving Planet exhibit you can find out how all those rocks, plants and animals were formed as you learn about the way the Earth came to exist over 4 billion years ago. As part of the experience, you can discover how all those dinosaurs and other creatures evolved into the mammals we see today. You’ll also see how little the ants have changed over millions of years, only shrinking to the size where you are the larger of the two.

The museum is located at 1400 S. Lake Shore Drive on the 57 acres of Museum Campus near the Shedd Aquarium and the Adler Planetarium.

Filed under: World Cities

Chicago – The Art Institute

Housed in an 1893 building erected as part of the World’s Fair, The Art Institute of Chicago is one of the country’s preeminent schools and museums.

The college which is part of the Institute actually began in 1866, with classes beginning two years later. A few bumpy years followed, but the school had revived by 1882. Down the years, the school has had some notable students, including Walt Disney, Georgia O’Keefe and Hugh Hefner. But for the traveler, the primary attraction is the world class exhibits.

Though smaller than the Metropolitan in New York or the Louvre in Paris, the Art Institute houses some of the finest works anywhere.

The African and American Indian collection houses wood sculpture, masks, textiles and bead designs from Southern, Central and West Africa. Scholars actively explore and research the items gathered by the museum over the years. It also holds a variety of Andean ceramics, metalwork and figurative art from South America.

Chicago has long been known for its architectural masterpieces and the architects who produced them. Louis Sullivan, Frank Lloyd Wright and many other greats have done some of their most notable work here. That fact is reflected in the Ernest R. Graham Study Center for Architectural Drawings. The collection is comprised of over 130,000 drawings, many of which are by the masters’ own hands.

A major part of the museum revolves around its outstanding European collections. There are over 25,000 objects, including ceramics, metalwork, enamels, glass sculpture and furniture. The items range in age from the early 12th century to the present, so there’s bound to be something to interest anyone.

The decorative arts collection is supplemented by a huge collection of textiles from down the ages. The Department of Textiles holds over 13,000 items from all over the world. There are pre-Columbian samples, European vestments, tapestries, lace and much else. The objects have come from as far away as Asia, Africa and Indonesia to Peru and Mexico.

Central to the museum’s attraction for visitors is the world class European paintings exhibits. The collection ranges from the works created in the Middle Ages to 1900. At around 2,000 works it isn’t the largest collection in the world by any means. The Louvre has been estimated to hold over 100,000 paintings. But, though smaller, there are some of the finest examples of the art of painting anywhere in the world.

The 19th century French paintings are among the best, rivaling some in the Louvre or the Musee D’Orsay. But there are also 15th century Spanish and German selections that are a great draw. Impressionism is well represented and there are many sculptures that are highly regarded by visitors. More modern artists are represented, as well. There are several popular O’Keefe’s, Grant Wood paintings and some by Edward Hopper that are popular items.

Located at 111 South Michigan Avenue at the western edge of Grant Park, the museum also offers a fine restaurant.

Filed under: World Cities

Chicago – Shedd Aquarium

Sited at the shore of Lake Michigan, the John G. Shedd Aquarium is widely acknowledged to be among the world’s finest. Home to more than 650 species of fish, reptile, amphibians, birds and mammals, they have over 8,000 individual animals from around the world.

Since 1930, the collection has grown to include a 90,000 coral reef exhibit, whale and dolphin habitats, an Amazon display, penguins and much more.

In the Marine Mammal show Pacific White-Sided dolphins put on a show that will entertain kids and adults. Be sure to show up at least half an hour before show time to get a good seat, though. The aquarium can be crowded and gates sometimes close 15-20 minutes before it begins.

In the Oceanarium exhibit you’ll have a chance to see all the creatures that inhabit this 3,000,000 gallon tank of seawater, the largest indoor marine mammal habitat in the world. The tank is separated into different sections and each one has something interesting to offer.

In Secluded Bay you can check out the 3,000 pound Beluga Whales. There’s an underground viewing area where you can see these large, but graceful animals show their stuff.

Walk along a little farther and you can visit Penguin Shore, where there are two different species of these delightful flightless birds. Sometimes the staff members will share a feel of real penguin feathers with visitors.

In the Wild Reef section you can find an awesome variety of colorful coral reefs, featuring over 20 different habitats and hundreds of species. Over 500,000 gallons of water hold a stunning array of polyps, anemones and other small creatures. But it also holds more than two dozen sharks that commonly occupy such reefs in the wild.

The Amazon Rising exhibit shows you what life is like in the rainforests of South America, with hundreds of different jungle creatures. The rainforests in the wild get over a hundred inches of rain per year, so you can tell the area is aptly named. Within the exhibit there are dozens of snakes, poisonous frogs and spiders. There are even venomous ants, along with 73 different kinds of catfish.

The area has two separate galleries in an 8,600 square foot walk-through area, simulating a flooded forest. The flood waters can be as high as six feet! Be sure your camera can handle the low light conditions, since no flash photography is allowed.

Covering almost half the upper level is the Waters of the World exhibit. It displays everything from the frozen seas of northern Alaska to the tropical waters of northern Australia and contains over 75 distinct habitats. You’ll find four sections: Rivers, Islands and Lakes, Oceans and Local waters.

In the exhibit are over 300 different species, including everything from iguanas to River Otters, turtles to an Australian Lungfish. There are touch screens that display tons of information about the animals, too.

Come see the circular tank in the Caribbean Reef, built in 1971, and watch the divers feed the animals while they tell you all about them.

No matter what kind of sea creature is of interest you’ll find many examples at the Shedd Aquarium, located at 1200 South Lake Shore Drive. See the website at http://www.sheddnet.org for details.

Filed under: World Cities

Chicago – Chicago’s Parks

With over 500 parks to choose from in the Windy City you may have trouble deciding which to visit. But some of the major ones have gained their reputations from all the things they offer visitors.

Grant Park stretches from the Museum Campus at Lake Shore Drive and Roosevelt Road to north of the world famous Prudential Building. The park is largely the result of efforts by the late Montgomery Ward, founder of the huge department store chain. Wanting to retain the view, he lobbied the city to construct Grant Park.

Here you’ll find the famed Buckingham Fountain, spouting happily all summer long. Located at 301 East Columbus drive it was constructed in 1927 and underwent a nearly $3 million renovation in 1994. With its four sea horses, it shoots water 150 feet into the air every hour on the hour.

Millenium Park, a section of Grant Park, is one of the newest additions, starting life just around the turn of the 21st century. Under discussion for 20 years prior, the park now offers 25 acres in the heart of the city bordered by Michigan Avenue to the west, Columbus Drive to the east and Randolf and Monroe streets on the north and south.

In the park there is ample grassland, modern art and a spectacular view of the Chicago skyline. Sculpture and walkways have replaced railroad tracks and parking lots.

Among the other foremost park offerings is Lincoln Park, beginning life as a small public cemetery in the 1850s. In 1860 a 60-acre section was created by the city and named after the President following his assassination in 1865. By 1950 the park had grown to its current 1,208 acres.

Situated in the park is a large statue of the Tin Man from the Wizard of Oz. Author Frank Baum lived in Chicago around the turn of the 20th century. There is the Lincoln Park Boat Club along with all kinds of sports activities. Also located here is the renowned Lincoln Park Zoo with hundreds of animals to see.

There’s one area whose name could be misleading, but that visitors will undoubtedly want to see: Hyde Park. Not actually a park, but a neighborhood, it is chock full of architectural marvels. Frank Lloyd Wright’s Robie House is here, considered among the finest housing structures ever built. It sits on what is now part of the University of Chicago Campus that Hyde Park abuts.

Beginning life in the 1850s near the Illinois Central Railroad, Hyde Park grew rapidly to become one of the premier residential areas. Extending from 39th to 138th streets, the core is around 53rd and the lakefront. With dozens of shops and restaurants along tree-line avenues it makes for a visitors paradise within the bustling city. Nearby is the Museum of Science and Industry.

You won’t have time to visit all of Chicago’s many parks. But you can see the great parks and enjoy a relaxing and fun-filled day in any of them.

Filed under: World Cities

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